Elizabethan Adornment

During the Elizabethan times it was very popular to wear adornments in the hair women often wore hair coverings that were very elaborate this started from an early age as during childhood girls would wear white linen caps that tied under the chin called coifs whilst women wore a variety of coverings, a common thing to wear was a French hood and also cauls.

Hair and headdresses Courtais G. p51

"Frizzing and close curls are also common, with the back of the hair enclosed in a cap or caul of reticuated goldsmith's work set with pearls or precious stones lined with coloured silk or cloth of gold or silver." - Courtais G. (1973) p50.

This quote explains the craftmanship that would go into the cauls that elizabethan women would wear, and how it would be adorned with precious jewels. A caul is a small bag that would have been pinned over the bun at the back of her head, and was often seen worn in collaboration with hats. These were often made out of fabric or fabric covered in a netted cord ( for the lower classes) or net of mesh gold, silver or silk thread. There are references that say that queen Elizabeth's Caul was made out of wire or braided hair. Some noble women would have these decorated with pears and gems, this is my favourite adornment for the hair during the Elizabethan era as it is probably the most elaborate. "Two cauls, the one of gold, the other of silver, kyntt." this quote describes the two cauls that were given to the queen in 1561-62 as a new year gift. 

A French hood originated from France, it was adapted in England when Anne Boylen stayed in France, it was closely fitted to the head and covered the ears with a gradual flare towards the back and the usual gold pleated ribbon at the base. They would often include billaments, these were fashionable additions to the French hood and were often pearls or jewels and matched the jewelled edges of the gown. French hoods were worn by the more conservative woman.

Drawings of Coifs. Courtais G. p.54

Coifs were close - fitting caps which was worn at night and for indoor wear or as a foundation for hoods and hats, they were made in one piece and had a seam along the top of the head, the front edge was often straight or more fashionably cut into a point or curve to allow for the hair to be seen, when worn during the night they were just made out of cloth but for wear during the day they were decorated with silks, or gold and silver metal threads and had images of flowers or animal motifs.

"A cawle of three forehead cloths of cameryck netted with gold." 
"A night coy of cameryck cutworm and spangles with a forehead cloth."
"A night coy of white cypress flourished over with silver."

These quotes are all of the coifs that were given to the Queen as presents.

Elizabethans were also known for embellishing their hairlines with precious gems, and pearls, some of the hats they wore separated their hair into a heart shape and looked extravagant at important.

 

Courtais G. (1973). Elizabethan 1558 - 1603. In: Unknown Women's Headdress and Hairstyles in England from AD600 to the Present Day. London: B T Batsford LTD. p48 - 58.