Bibliography

Books

• Bryer R (2000). The History of Hair Fashion and Fantasy Down the Ages. London: Phillip Wilson Publishers. p30 - 49.

• Cortais G (1973). Women's Headdress and Hairstyles in England from AD600 to the Present Day. London: B T Batsford LTD. p48 - 58.
• D'Assailly G (1968). Ages of elegance : five thousand years of fashion and frivolity.. Paris: Hatchette. p1 - 30.
• Keyes J (1967). A History of Women's Hairstyles 1500 - 1965. London: Methuen & Co LTD. p6 - 11.
• Sherrow V (2006). Encyclopedia of Hair - A Cultural History. London: Greenwood Press. p 116 - 117.
• Susan Doran and Norman Jones. (2014). The Elizabethan World. Published by Routledge (Oxfordshire) Chapter: Society – Women. Pages 335-349

Internet

• Niedermair B. (Unknown). Carine Rotfield's Beauty Queens. Available: http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/photography/g5511/carine-roitfeld-portfolio-0515/. Last accessed 1st Dec 2015.
• Unknown. (2013). WOMEN'S AUTUMN/WINTER 2013. Available: http://www.alexandermcqueen.com/experience/en/alexandermcqueen/archive/womens-autumnwinter-2013-2/. Last accessed 5th Oct 2015.
• Unknown. (2009). Queen of the Renaissance | Vlada Roslyakova by Pierluigi Maco. Available: http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/queen-of-the-renaissance/. Last accessed 1st Dec 2015.
• Walter Nelson. (Unknown). The Structure of Elizabethan Society. Available: http://walternelson.com/dr/node/246. Last accessed 11th October 2015.

Films

• Shekhar Kapur, (October 2 1998), ‘Elizabeth’
• Shekhar Kapur, (November 2 2007), 'Elizabeth the Golden Age'

Technical Evaluation

Over the past 10 weeks I have learnt essential skills and techniques to start gaining a knowledge on creating different hairstyles along with working to an industry standard of hygiene and following strict health and safety rules. Although I have studied hair for two years prior to this course I believe that my skills have still improved considerably. The things that I believe have been the most successful during these technical sessions is how I have developed the skill of looking at a hair design, and be able to break the design down into manageable easy sections instead of getting overwhelmed at something that simply looks complex. I have really struggled however getting to grips with braiding as this is something that has always made me panic and I usually avoid them at all costs. After these 10 weeks I am now a lot more confident to try more elaborate hairstyles with braids and buns ect, as I really believe having strong hair skills will benefit my portfolio greatly.

Evaluation

The main way I overcame problems with my design was working with my partner to find ways that I could create the design on my hair, I had to reel back some of my ideas during this assignment as sometimes my ideas were too extravagant and would not work on my hair length and type and also would not be applicable for my current skillset.

The way I developed my research was through looking at portraiture and reading books about Elizabethan hair, this was my main way of getting genuine historical research, then I went on to looking at secondary sources like films.

I really enjoyed working to my partners hair brief, although it was simple It was really effective and she was a fantastic partner to work with in the way of cooperativeness and communication.

Overall I found the project really challenging in the sense that we were not allowed to create our own designs, and also the fact that we had to create something to someone else's standards,  it was hard to break out of my own habits to create someone else's vision, and to in some sense swallow my pride and do some things completely different to how I would do it personally. I really think this was a great learning curve for me because in industry this would be the case, as I will in my career work under a makeup designer or creative director and this will influence how I work.

The thing I enjoyed the most about this brief was finding links between Elizabethan hairstyles and contemporary runway/ fashion editorial, I enjoyed this so much because it was surprising how many things could be referenced as Elizabethan, this unit has given me the confidence to analyse fashion images and speak confidently about how I believe the hairstyle can be linked to the Elizabethans.

Timed Assessment - In the Role of the Designer/ Model

Makeup/ Hair Artist - Jennifer Barry

Model/ Designer - Bronya Leavesley

 

 

 

 

PEER EVALUATION

These are the final images from my partners hair timed assessment, she has executed my design really well and has been fantastic at overcoming problems that we encountered with my design. We had lots of problems trying to get the roses from the design right, my initial idea was too ambitious and could not be created on my hair type or length, so we changed the hair design so the roses were only on the hairline, my partner was fantastic for trying loads of different things to get the roses correct, and she took direction really well, the roses nearest to the ear are fantastic and exactly how I wanted them, you can see the clear difference in textures and this is a really strong aspect of the look. There is a few aspects of this look that I believe could be improved on, I think the roses at the top of the hair could be neater, and also I think the back of the hair could be neater too, with the frizzing brushed out and also the hair slicked down more, however these are really minor things, and overall the look comes together as a whole. Overall my partner has been fantastic, she has shown a lot of patience for my design and has also put in a lot of effort trying to get her interpretation to match my vision, the only thing she would need to improve on is her time management skills, as towards the end we began to get rushed.





Timed Assessment - In the Role of the Makeup/ Hair Artist

Designer/ Model - Jennifer Barry

Makeup Artist - Bronya Leavesley 

SELF EVALUATION

These are my final images of my application of Jennifer's hair design. I am overall really happy with how the look has turned out in the end, I believe that I have effectively worked with the designer to create a look that she is happy with and that reflected her design and idea for the overall look. The two things which were really successful in my assessment were my use of backcombing and also my time management skills, in the practice sessions Jennifer expressed to me that she wanted the hair to be wild and frizzy, to create a clear contrast between the straight part at the top so I took this advice and went with it, and she was really happy with it. I found my time management skills to be good because overall the hair took me 1hour 15mins and i even had time to so a quick 15min makeup to tie the look in. The one thing in the assessment that went wrong was at the back, due to a lack of concentration I crimped the hair too high, I think this was a result of me getting to overconfident with the design and i slipped up, the hair would look a lot more effective if it was all straight at the top. From this I have learnt to always be on the ball when doing hair, because my models hair was so long, I started crimping on autopilot and this is where I slipped up.

Haapers Bazaar: Beauty Queens by Carine Roitfeld

 

 

I have found this editorial beauty shoot that featured in Haapers Bazaar in May 2015 titled Beauty Queens. The makeup was done by Kabuki for Diorshow and the hair was done by Akki. I am really fond of all the regal qualities of all the different make-up and hair looks in this collection but this image is the one that really struck me as having Elizabethan influences. For starters I first looked at the hair, it is styled in a deep clean centre parting that is scraped back to give the illusion of a high hairline and is also plaited into two triangular shapes, this made me think of the round shapes that Elizabethan women tried to achieve, however this is a completely modern interpretation, as it is triangular and is not a solid structure. The part of the makeup that made me think of the Elizabethan period is the light eyebrows as women during this time kept their eyebrows light. The pale base with little eye makeup and heavy blush is also typically Elizabethan to me, but I really like the modern application of blush, it gives a subtle contour to the face and also makes the face look longer, which is common to see Queen Elizabeth with a long face in her portraiture. The final thing that made me think of the Elizabethans is the high collar, this to me symbolises the ruff that the nobility of this time used to wear.
I really like this as a contemporary Elizabethan design, I like how is has a geometric theme and that there is a big focus on shapes, from the triangles in her hair, to the circles on her lips and ears, and to the rectangle shape that the blush makes on the face, there is a clear focus on clean lines and shapes, which could reflect on Queen Elizabeth's need for perfection.

Niedermair B. (Unknown). Carine Rotfield's Beauty Queens. Available: http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/photography/g5511/carine-roitfeld-portfolio-0515/. Last accessed 1st Dec 2015.

Hair Practice 3

To re-familiarise myself with the design that I have to create, I practiced my design once again on my Katie head to get a plan of how to execute my design in the most time effective way. I am confident with what I have done, and I am sure that when I do this on my model that it will look really effective, I just need to spend a lot of my time getting the partitioning right as this makes the look.

 



Instructions

1. Brush through all the hair to make sure there is no knots or tangles then carefully section it into a middle parting, make sure that this is as straight and as clean as possible.
2. Crimp all of this hair in neat sections all the way up, apart from the top few layers where you only crimp the hair up to the ear.
3. Brush through the crimp to make the hair frizzy.
4. Then take two sections from the front to just behind the ear and section this off on both sides.
5. Then take one of these sections and split it in half horizontally, take the top section and pull this back and drop it, with the front section pull this round the other section and start the waterfall braid, continue braiding until you get to the parting at the back and pin.
6. Do the same as this at the other side of the hair.
7. Take both ends of the waterfall braid and twist them together then plait it all the way down to the bottom.
8. Attach any adornments that have been given to you.
9. Using the pin tail comb backcomb the hair to create volume at the bottom.
10. Run some Hairspray over the top of the hair to get rid of any flyways to make the hair look neat.